I have wanted to visit this beautiful city with its ornate nineteenth century architecture, elegantly decorated thermal baths, and wide boulevards for many years now. And it didn’t disappoint. Budapest is like no other European city. It’s faded grandeur invites you in and makes you feel at home from the minute you arrive.
Budapest used to be two different cities – Buda and Pest – divided by the Danube River. The two cities were merged into one metropolis in 1873. Each part has its own personality as if the river not only divides the city geographically but metaphysically too.I stayed on the Pest side (pronounced ‘pesht’ ), as most visitors do, which has more sights and nightlife than the more residential Buda side.
We kicked of our exploration of the city in the Castle district. We crossed the Danube via Margaret bridge, one of the many beautiful bridges in the city, then walked up to Buda Castle. It is a bit of a walk, but worth it. You can also take the No. 16 bus up the hill. The funicular is another option, but it usually has a lengthy wait and is quite expensive. They call it a castle, but it is more of a palace complex than anything else. It was originally constructed in the 13th century, but the huge Baroque complex you see today was built a lot later (between 1749 and 1769). The palace’s days of being a luxurious living space ended during World War II, when Nazi and Russian troops looted it. Today it is home to a collection of museums. The views from the castle’s gardens and terraces are breath-taking. Not only does it offer a panorama over Pest and the Danube River, but also an unobstructed view of the Hungarian Parliament building with its towering neo-Gothic spires. From the royal palace we meandered down Támok utca (street), with its beautiful Baroque mansions, to the iconic Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion.
The Matthias Church is very unique. The colourful roof almost looks like it was built from Lego. The original church was built in the 11th century, though nothing remains of it today. The current building was constructed in the 14 century with significant renovations being done in the 19th century again. The Fisherman’s Bastion was built between 1895 and 1902 and provides great panoramic views across the Danube River. This ornate, fairy-tale structure comprises seven lookout towers that represent the seven Hungarian tribes that founded Budapest. The name comes from either the fact that the terrace overlooks the fishermen’s guild, or that the fishermen’s guild was responsible for protecting that area of the wall (no one seems to be sure).
After taking in the views from the Bastion we headed back to Pest to visit the Central Market Hall (also called the Great Market Hall). Built in 1897, this is the oldest and largest indoor market in the country. On the first floor I bought the most delicious cherries. We then made our way to the market’s second floor which is a treasure trove of traditional Christmas decorations, hand woven fabric and trinkets.
We’d worked up an appetite after all our walking, so we headed for the nearest pub for a traditional Goulash soup and Pilsner. For dessert we had a chimney cake, a roasted bun with cinnamon and sugar (and yes, it is as delicious as it sounds). Feeling very content we made our way to the Hungarian State Opera House. Unfortunately, we missed the 3pm English guided tour, so we just wandered around the front of the opera house admiring the beautiful architecture.
The evening we took a rickshaw to the St. Stephen’s Basilica to attend an organ concert – which was amazing. The rickshaw ride was great fun and a must when in Budapest. The basilica is one of the two tallest buildings in Budapest (the other is the Hungarian Parliament). The two structures were deliberately built at the same height to symbolise equality of church and state in Hungary. The interior of St. Stephen’s Basilica is gorgeous. The building is named after King Stephen I, who is considered the founder of the Hungarian state. Interestingly, the most precious item in the church is not one of the many pieces of art, but the thousand-year-old mummified hand of King Stephen, which is on display for visitors to see. Luckily, I missed that one.
After the concert we took to the streets in search of some Hungarian street food. I had heard of Langos – a deep-fried flatbread (vetkoek) topped with sour cream and cheese – and was very keen to try it. Oh, my word – words can’t explain how delicious it is. Our last stop was the Budapest Ferris Wheel which affords you wonderful views of the city. It also helped me orientate myself with regards to all the places we had visited during the day. I know, it is very touristy, but I still think it is a must when visiting the city.
Early the next morning I roamed the streets of the Palace district with its enormous nineteenth century mansions. The area is also home to many quirky statues. I made my way down to the Parliament building, the elaborate building where the Hungarian House of Parliament is located. I immediately noticed the building’s resemblance to the House of Parliament in the U.K. I later learned that this is no coincidence – the architect who designed the Hungarian Parliament drew his inspiration from Great Britain’s building (or completely copied it, depending on your interpretation of historical events). Still, it remains a beautiful building. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to take the official half hour tour. It is said that the interior is just as dramatic as the exterior with gilded doorways, ceiling frescoes and beautiful tapestries.
On my way to the parliament building, I passed one of the most sobering memorial sites I have ever visited – ‘Shoes on the Danube banks’. The simple memorial is a stark reminder of how humanity chooses to hurt one another based on prejudices. It was erected to remember and honour the Jewish people who were massacred by fascist Hungarian militia in Budapest during the Second World War. They were ordered to take off their shoes (shoes were valuable and could be resold) and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away.
The Danube is the second-longest river in Europe and a boat cruise is fun way to see the city. We did a early morning cruise before leaving for Vienna, but I am told that a boat cruise by night, that includes dinner and drinks, is a better option. Something for next time’s bucket list.
Speaking of next time. The two days we spent in Budapest wasn’t nearly enough. I had so many places on my ‘To visit’ -list, but unfortunately ran out of time. But not to worry – they make for a great excuse to visit Budapest again. Here is the wish-list for my next visit (and things you should do when in Budapest):
- Soak at the baths: Budapest is home to more than a dozen public baths, which are fed by natural mineral-rich waters that simmer below the city’s surface. Some of them date all the ways back to the Ottoman era.
- Visit the Dohány Street Synagogue and Jewish Quarter: The Dohány synagogue is the largest one in Europe. It was desecrated by die Nazis during World War II, but has been beautifully restored. Behind the synagogue there is a weeping willow sculpture inscribed with names of the Hungarian Holocaust on its branches.
- See the Cave Church: The church was built by monks in the 1920s and used as a hospital during World War II.
- Explore Gellert Hill: The hill offers the best views of Budapest and has several interesting monuments.
- Visit Margaret Island: The island is smack in the middle of the Danube and a beautiful space to enjoy a walk or picnic.
- Have a drink at the Ruin Bars: Ruin bars are all the rage in Budapest. From the outside they look like normal homes.
- Catch an opera at the Hungarian State Opera House
- Visit the Hospital in the Rock: This museum has a fascinating history, having served as a hospital, bomb shelter, prison, and nuclear bunker.
- Admire the Hungarian National Gallery: This museum focuses on Hungarian artists and history.
Budapest is a vibrant city with a rich history, beautiful parks and buildings, bustling food halls, cool underground bars, and centuries-old thermal baths. And it is super budget-friendly too! We stayed for two days, but could have lingered for weeks and never run out of things to do. I would definitely recommend coming for at least 5 days. The city’s worn grandeur, coupled with its youthful vibe, set it apart from many other European cities. Definitely a city I will visit again.
Viszontlatasra from Hungary!
xxx
