‘Sasa!‘, says one of the friendliest faces I’ve ever seen, as he puts my suitcase in the taxi’s trunk. ‘Aah, the traffic is bad’, says Roger with a smile. It is early morning in Nairobi and I am excited to in ‘The Green City in the Sun’, as Nairobi is referred to.
Nairobi’s name is derived from the Maasai phrase Enkare Nairobi, which means ‘place of cool waters’. A reference to the Nairobi River that runs through the city. Nairobi is not only the Kenyan capital and the largest city in the country, but also the only city in the world with a National Park only 7km from the city centre. And that’s where I’m heading – as soon as the traffic starts moving.
Roger informs me that we are taking a short detour. He wants to show me a special project. We turn off onto a very bad dirt road that takes us to Kobe Tough. Kobe Tough is a non-profit organization that sells the most beautiful handmade ceramic jewellery. The clay beads are made by Maasai women. This special project enables unemployed women to support their families. After a tour of the workshops, one of the women leads me to the Kobe Tough store. The strings and strings of colourful beads make it almost impossible to choose. After sometime, with a string of beads in my pocket, we were on our way again. Next stop – Nairobi National Park.
Roger drops me off at a somewhat disappointing gate, but as soon as I enter the park the feeling of disappointment disappears. The 117 km² Nairobi National Park lies on the Southern outskirts of the city. It may be one of the smallest parks in Africa, but 14 species of antelope, lions, leopards, spotted hyenas and 526 bird species call the park’s open plains, forest areas and wooded valleys home. You will also find Africa’s largest giraffe, the Maasai Giraffe, here. The park is also an award-winning Rhino conservation area with no less than 50 Black rhino breeding pairs.
The short drive to the Nairobi Tented Camp, my home for the evening, is very productive with sightings of rhinos and lions. Viewing wildlife against the backdrop of skyscrapers is an interesting and unique experience.
The Nairobi Tented Camp offers everything you expect from a luxury lodge. The nine ensuite tents are beautifully furbished with everything one needs on safari and more. I spent the afternoon on my tent’s veranda enjoying the view of the forest and valley below. After a productive late afternoon game drive and a lovely dinner I couldn’t wait to get into bed. The hot water bottle was a real treat and made my 5-star tent feel like home. It didn’t take long for the forest sounds to lull me to sleep. It was still dark when I awoke to a friendly ‘Good morning’. Unzipping the door the aroma of coffee filled my tent. For a moment I considered skipping the morning game drive to enjoy coffee and biscuits in bed. But as I sat watching a pride of lions only an hour later, I was grateful that I had dragged myself to the game viewing vehicle. After a generous breakfast it was time to meet Roger at the park’s gate for the second day of my Nairobi City Safari.
Even the sudden rainy and cool weather couldn’t discourage me from visiting the AFEW Giraffe Centre. Personally, I’m not a big fan of parks and farms that promise touch interactions with animals, because too often the animals are exploited for human entertainment and pleasure. But when an animal encounter is run ethically, with conservation at the heart of the organization, I’m happy to support it. The AFEW Giraffe Centre is one such organization. The centre is on the same grounds as the famous Giraffe Manor, where giraffes poke their heads through the windows to eat breakfast with guests. The AFEW Giraffe Centre aims to save the endangered Rothschild Giraffe with their breeding and education program. They also offer visitors the opportunity to experience and feed these beautiful giants in a safe environment. I had the wonderful privilege of feeding Betty a few treats. She is 23 years old, which makes her a senior citizen, as Rothschild giraffes have a life expectancy of about 28 years. She is also the grandmother of quite a few of the giraffes at the centre.
Drenched, but extremely happy I sought shelter from the cold and rainy weather at the best restaurant in Nairobi. That is according to The New York Times. And I couldn’t agree more. With a charming interior of Middle Eastern tapestries and Kenyan art, El fresco dining, and a wine list a mile long who would blame us for giving the Talisman restaurant this accolade. I spent the afternoon tucked under a blanket in front of the cutest little coal stove. The Swahili Snapper curry was exactly what the weather called for. And for dessert, being a panna cotta fan (and snob), I passed on the other delicious looking sweet treats for Talisman’s panna cotta served with sesame brittle and berry coulis. It didn’t disappoint. To be fair it was one of the best I have ever eaten.
The Brandy Bus, my accommodation for the evening, is in the established suburb of Karen. This original London bus has been lovingly renovated and converted into a cute Airbnb. The bus sleeps 6 people and has a fully equipped kitchen and bathroom. The name is derived from the old Courvoisier Brandy advertisement that used to be painted on the side of the bus. The Brandy Bus is in a huge and beautiful garden. Sitting outside on the bus’s veranda in front of a roaring fire, I almost forgot that I was in the middle of a busy city.
The Karen Blixen Museum is walking distance from The Brandy Bus and a nice trip for any history buff. The house, which was first the farmhouse of Karen Blixen and her husband Baron Bror von Blixen Fincke, gained international fame with the release of the Oscar-winning film Out of Africa. The film is based on her autobiography. The museum offers guided tours of the house that not only gives you a good overview of this strong and talented woman’s life, but also of colonial Kenya in the early 1900s.
Before leaving for my conference the next morning, Roger takes me to Karura forest. Although it is only 6:45, the traffic is already heavy. Drivers are on their hooters, trucks’ exhaust fumes make it difficult to breathe and picky-picky weave dangerously between the larger vehicles to gain a few meters. Nairobi’s traffic can be stressful. Just as I was beginning to regret this last excursion we turn off of the main road. Suddenly the giant eucalyptus trees replace the trucks and the exhaust gases make way for the sharp lemon smell of the forest.
Karura Forest is not only one of the largest forests in the world, it’s also fully within the city limits which makes it unique. Unfortunately, I only had two hours in the forest, but one could spend days exploring the 2500 hectares of forest. The 50 kilometres of well marked paths are ideal for walking, jogging, or cycling. The park is full of tourist attractions, such as the caves where the Mau Mau (freedom fighters) hid from the colonial troops. If you are lucky, you might even see monkeys, small species of antelope and the most beautiful blue butterflies. Karura Forest is best known for its Orange Waterfall. The water is coloured orange by the dark red soil, especially in the rainy season.
Sadly, my two-day City Safari has come to an end, but Roger has one more surprise up his sleeve. Although the Kenyans are tea lovers, there are several good coffee shops in the city. And we’re on our way to one. With its large, shady patio full of plants, Kesh Kesh Coffee Roasters and Café is a small oasis in the middle of the busy and noisy city. The waitress hands me an impressive menu, but honestly, I read no further than ‘Kenyan coffee made and served in the traditional Ethiopian way’. Oh…I wish you could smell this.
The word ‘safari’ is Swahili for ‘journey’. And what a journey my two days in Nairobi turned out to be. This city makes for a wonderful and exciting destination. Wildlife, natural beauty, history, and food – I loved every moment of my time in the city. But Nairobi’s greatest asset is her friendly and kind people.
Asante and kwaheri Nairobi – you will see me again.
xxx
A heartfelt thank you to Nairobi Tented Camp and Brandy Bus for hosting me during my stay.
