If beautiful beaches, warm tropical waters, and dreamy sunset dhow trips sound like your perfect holiday destination, then Lamu Island should be on your bucket list. But Lamu is so much more than the perfect beach destination, it also caters for nature lovers, culture vultures, adventurers, and foodies.
Everything you need to know about visiting Lamu Island
Founded in the 12th century Lamu Island is one of the best-preserved examples of Swahili architecture in Africa. Walking along the maze-like cobbled alleyways of Old Town Lamu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is like walking back in time. I was mesmerized by the old town’s 18th century coral buildings that give the whole town a soft pink glow. According to our guide there are only 5 cars on Lamu Island, but we did not see one during our stay. Walking through Old Town Lamu you will definitely bump into a few of the estimated 5000 donkeys on the island. These special animals provide transport for humans and goods.
When to visit Lamu and how long to stay
According to those in the know it is best to visit the island in the dry seasons, from July to October (cooler weather) and January to March (very hot weather). We were there in the middle of November, and although it was warming up nicely there was no rain. It is important to note that most of the accommodation is built in the traditional Swahili-style architecture which relies solely on open-plan buildings that provide natural airflow. If you are sensitive to the heat, it is important to look for accommodation with Air Conditioning.
We spent four days in Lamu which was just enough to see and do everything we wanted to, but I would recommend spending at least 6 days on the island so you can completely immerse yourself in the laid back and relaxed island vibe.
How to get around
In Old Town Lamu and Shela you will be on foot, as there is no other means of transportation. Moving between Manda, Shela and Old Town Lamu you will travel by boat. Which you can easily find on the beach or at the jetty at any time. At low tide you can walk from Shela to Old Town Lamu. It takes about 45 minutes and gives you a unique experience of the island. If you don’t feel like the walk, you can always take a pickie-pickie (motorcycle taxi). But be warned this option is not for the faint-hearted.
Where to stay?
If you are looking for a beach holiday, you are going to want to be based in Shela Village. For a more cultural trip, you should base yourself in Lamu Old Town. We found combining the two worked well for us. We spent two nights in the Old Town and three nights on Manda. The one thing we regret was not spending a night or two in Shela…but now we have a great excuse to visit Lamu again.
We stayed at:
- Stopover Guest House, which is relatively basic but very affordable. It is perfectly located to experience everyday life in the Old Town. (Lamu Old Town)
- The Majlis Resort, is a bit of splurge but extremely beautiful and luxurious. (Manda Island)
We can also recommend:
- Lamu House hotel is popular among tourist wanting to stay in Lamu Old Town. They have a lovely swimming pool and their inhouse restaurant (Moonrise restaurant) serves the most delicious banana fritters.
- Kijani House is in a prime location (Shela Village)
- Peponi Hotel has the best location on the island (Shela village)
- Banana House is great for yogis and offers large rooms and great food (Shela village)
My favourite things to do on Lamu Island
- A sunset dhow trip is a must! The going rate is about 6000KES (about R940) for the whole boat. Our skipper, Calamari, treated us to the most delicious homemade samosas and fried potatoes on our sunset cruise.
- Explore the maze-like streets of Lamu Old Town. A local tour guide will give you a half-day tour for about 1000KES (about R160). A visit to the 18th Century Swahili House Museum will give you a glimpse into the Swahili culture.
- Enjoy a rum and pineapple juice at the Floating Bar. Ask any captain at Shela or Old Town Lamu jetty to take you there.
- Take a break from the beach and visit the Takwa National Monument on Manda Island. These ruins date back to the sixteenth century. It is said that the settlement was inhabited by two thousand people between 1500 and 1700AD. Walking through the ruins of the Great Mosque and the remains of a family home you can almost imagine what life must have been like in this small community.
- Treat yourself to a ‘lounge-next-to-the-swimming pool’-day at the five-star Majlis Resort on Manda Island. For 500KES you can spend the day on a sun lounger next to one of the hotel’s gorgeous swimming pools.
- Pop into the ‘Recycled Art Shop’ in Old Town Lamu and meet the owner, Isaiah Chepyator. Like most islands, plastic pollution is a big problem on Lamu, and Isaiah is doing something about it. Isaiah picks up old flip flops littering Lamu beaches and together with wood he buys from locals, creates the most amazing pieces of art. I promise you won’t leave the shop without a beautiful piece of art to take home.
- If you stay at Majlis Resort, be sure to go snorkeling. It is a bit pricey but worth every penny.
What to eat & where
Lamu is a great destination for any foodie that loves fresh produce. Here are some of my food highlights.
Bush Gardens Seafood Restaurant in Old Town Lamu is a must for fresh fish and seafood. Their flame grilled calamari and Swahili style fish served with coconut sauce is to die for. Peet and I never eat at the same place twice while travelling. But Bush Gardens’ food was so good they saw us three times during our stay. They also serve the most amazing fruit shakes which are made by blending fresh fruit, a little water and sugar together. I can recommend all of them – especially the lime shake. Although I must admit the Avocado and Tamarind shakes are an acquired taste.
Lamu’s street food is cheap and very tasty. Be sure to try a ‘Swahili pizza’ when in Lamu. Best described as a folded pancake/chapati filled with savory mince and egg.
I had Mahamri for breakfast more than once and was considering smuggling a few home. Mahamri is a small vetkoek/doughnut with the most amazing cardamon flavour.
Whispers coffee shop in the Old Town has a delicious shake made from dates and milk. Another must when in Lamu. While you’re there try the coconut and lime cake. Devine!
The restaurant at The Majlis Resort serves a delicious goat curry. Majlis also serves Matoke (green bananas) in tomato sauce for breakfast. This was a first for me and although I was a little reluctant at first, I must admit it was very tasty. They also serve fantastic oven-fired pizzas.
My five top tips
- The local currency is Kenya Shilling. At most resorts and hotels, you can pay with your credit card, but make sure to have some cash when spending time in Old Town Lamu as very few places take cards. There are two ATM’s in the old town should your cash run out.
- When walking in the village be mindful of exposing your shoulders and knees as Lamu is a conservative Muslim Island. Swimming further up from the beach, past Peponi Hotel towards the Fort, is encouraged.
- Alcohol is expensive on the island, and only sold in restaurants and at hotels. Many tourists bring their own liquor in from Nairobi.
- If, like Peet, mosquitoes and bugs love you be sure to stock up on the Natural Lamu mosquito repellent balm or oil, available at the Peponi gift shop. It also works for sand flies.
- If you are looking for a local guide to help you find your way around the Old Town, book a dhow or organise a trip to Takwa or Manda Toto, ask for Ziba. Everyone knows him. Be sure to negotiate rates before accepting his or any other guide’s services.
Learn the lingo before you go
Being able to converse with the locals in Swahili is great. Here are a few basic words and phrases to learn before you visit.
Jambo – Hello
Thank you – Asante
Good bye – Khaheri
Habari gani – How are you?
Nafurahi kukuona – Nice to meet you
How to get there
Flights from South Africa to Kenya land at Jomo Kenyatta International airport (JKIA). We took a taxi from JKIA to the small domestic airport, Nairobi Wilson. Taxi’s are readily available at JKIA, but make sure you give yourself enough time between flights as the short drive between the two airports can take up to an hour depending on traffic. There are several flights a day from Nairobi Wilson to Manda Airport (Lamu) and they are affordable. Most accommodation in Lamu offer free boat transfers from the airport to the island but be sure to arrange it in advance.
South Africans do not need a visa for stays shorter than 3 months and receive a passport stamp upon arrival. You will need a yellow fever and covid vaccination certificate as well as a negative covid test upon arrival.
Lamu is truly a special place. I loved the simplicity of life here which invites you to not only slow down, but rest. But above all I love Lamu’s people. Everywhere you go people call out to welcome you to their island as they go about their days ‘work. I can honestly say I have never visited a place with such friendly people. Lamu is a must-visit for anyone looking to slow down and relax in a beauty place.
xxx
Thank you The Majlis for hosting us.
